puerto rico 2019: fajardo

After leaving El Yunque, we drove to our next destination and hotel: El Conquistador Resort in Fajardo. Neither H nor I are super into the idea of an all-inclusive sort of place as it feels a bit restrictive, not to mention it's usually pretty pricey. However, given how last minute the trip was booked, El Conquistador was largely the only place still available. Since the hurricanes hit Fajardo pretty badly, much of the resort was closed and still under reconstruction, but this also meant significantly lower-than-usual prices. Another positive to the situation was a largely empty resort; less people/traffic = less noise.

Outside the main lobby

View from the front of the hotel onlooking the property/golf course

We wanted to take our time in Fajardo pretty slowly, especially since I anticipated we would be tired from the previous day at El Yunque. Our rough plan for the day included food, the famous Fajardo beaches, and a bioluminescent bay tour in the evening at Laguna Grande (technically a lagoon, not a bay). Unfortunately, the whole not-planning-things-out-in-time got in the way and we weren't able to find a bio bay tour during our time in PR- the tours were booked atleast a week and a half out. Although most of the images of bio bays available online are significantly enhanced, it was still something I wish we hadn't missed out on. In retrospect, I probably would've sprung for the bay in Vieques. In 2017, Mosquito Bay in Vieques was already known to be the brightest in the world, but after the hurricanes, the population of dinoflagellates increased significantly.

Since our evening had freed up, we moved through the day even slower and started with a late brunch at Las Vistas Cafe. The outdoor cafe had amazing views of the town, as well was fantastic fruit. The owner gave us a complimentary bowl of fresh fruits from her garden, adding that the mango tree had not produced fruit for over a year after the hurricane, until now. 

Fruit bowl with mango from the previously-dormant mango tree

Fell in love with this flowering flora that lined a driveway

After breakfast, it only felt appropriate to make our way over to the beach. We picked Seven Seas beach and were able to easily find street parking. We found a spot on the shore, set down our towels, and spent most of the afternoon reading, in the water, and just zoning out (mostly me, H actually read). There were public restrooms with showers available after purchasing a $1 restroom pass. 

Seven Seas beach in Fajardo

Post-swim reading

We left the beach around sunset and in pursuit of dinner. Probably my favorite meal of our trip, La Estacion did not disappoint. I was not expecting to find a BBQ place in PR, much less try a new type of BBQ. La Estacion specializes in "Nuyorican BBQ", which mixes traditional BBQ with Caribbean flavors. The result is as phenomenal as it sounds. H went for the brisket, and I ordered the local fish fry special (Red Snapper).

Nuyorican style brisket

Local fish fry

An unexpected but welcomed dinner guest

We called it a night early and headed back to the hotel with plans to return to San Juan in the morning, hoping to explore the city more.

puerto rico 2019: fajardo

Saturday, March 28, 2020

puerto rico 2019: el yunque rainforest

Day 2 in PR was one I was super excited about since we would be making the (short) drive east to El Yunque National Forest. Growing up, my family did a lot of road trips, a lot of which included trips to national forests. Over the years I've tried to make it a point to head to one if I find myself near one on a trip, and our trip to PR was no different. This was especially exciting since it was my first trip to a tropical rain forest. Though I've been to other rain forests within the system (including parts of Olympic National Park in Washington State), El Yunque is the only tropical rain forest in the US national park system. Though parts of the park are still closed for recovery from the hurricanes a couple of years ago, a good part of the park is still open.

The view from the parking lot where we waited to be let in, with Fajardo's waters in the background

Down the road from the waiting lot

The drive from our hotel in San Juan to the forest was hardly 45 minutes and pretty straight forward. We were mindblown at how a 45 minute drive could mean the difference between going from the beach and sea level to 1,000+ ft. By the time we got to the park, it was close to noon and there was a waiting line to get in. We took our rental car and were planning to drive through the forest, stopping where we saw a trail and place to park, which seemed to be how most of the visitors did it. The rangers at the entry point informed us that since the hurricanes and recovery efforts, they have placed a cap on how many people can be in the park at once. There are usually two waves of when they let cars in: in the early mornings, and around 1:30 to 2 pm, which is the category we fell into. When the capacity is capped, the park temporarily closes. Had we planned a bit better, we would have aimed for the earlier time, but it's not like there wasn't much to see even as we waited to be let in. FYI, they don't do reservations- it's all first come first serve! There are travel packages and tour buses leaving from various surrounding cities for day trips to the forest, but very much not necessary. 

The weather was very much humid and hot (on par for a tropical rain forest), with multiple 1-2 minute rain showers that were scattered throughout our trip. We didn't run into mosquitos as I was expecting, but I'm glad we had prepared for them just in case. I wore athleisure (read: yoga pants and a t-shirt), with a light rain jacket and sneakers. A rain jacket is clutch since it allows you to enjoy the views without an umbrella blocking your (and everyone else's views). 

Along the drive, we stopped by Yokahú Tower. The Tower had a small gift shop at the bottom, with stairs leading to the top. Trekkable for someone who rarely works out, and worth the views! The tower also has viewing areas on the way up.

Rainfall as seen from Yokahú Tower

The top of the Tower

The Yokahú Tower parking lot 

One of many waterfalls directly off the road

Although we had brought snacks, we weren't anticipating waiting to get into the park, which extended our time in the park by quite a bit. By later afternoon, we had gotten hungry and happened to find a small cafe within the park. By the time we finished eating, I noticed we'd had a lunch guest just diagonally overhead (see below). Also something to be prepared for ahead of time, though we saw multiple restrooms, they were all closed for post-hurricane renovations. (Un)fortunately, port-a-potties were the alternative. Bring sanitizer, wipes, and TP!

Previously mentioned lunch guest, snoozing 

Found a small trail near the cafe for a post-lunch walk

Gigantic tree snail

We spent probably a total of 3-4 hours once we got into the actual park. Though I feel it was an adequate amount of time, you could very easily spend more. We didn't get to the end of the roads that were still open, but opted to head out when we did since I was getting tired. We headed back down the mountain and drove another 30-45 minutes to our next destination- the beach town of Fajardo.

puerto rico 2019: el yunque rainforest

Thursday, March 26, 2020